Carpet Cleaning Addlestone KT15 London

1.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/hepafilterhome_sdas.htm
How does a hepa filter works
HEPA filters have been working behind the scenes for many years in laboratories, hospital isolation wards, operating rooms, and in other areas where the cleansing of the air of contaminants is critical for human health and safety. HEPA filters were invented by the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC) during the Second World War Researchers who were experimenting, and otherwise working with, radioactive materials needed an air filter that would efficiently remove and hold onto radioactive dust from the air inside the laboratories.
HEPA filters and products containing them, such as home air purifiers and upright vacuum cleaners, have only been available to the public for the last decade or so. HEPA or "High Efficiency Particle Arrestor", as the letters stand for, is known for its outstanding performance in removing harmful micro-organisms from the air that we breathe. When this type of filter is used on an air purifying system, it can successfully trap up to 99.99% of every ten thousand particles that are floating around in the air. These particles can be about anything from bacteria, germs, viruses, dust, pet dander, pollen, mold, smoke, dust mites, et cetera. That is the reason HEPA filters are recommended by more medical doctors than any other type of filter. On top of that, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as well as the Occupational Safety and Health Administration have endorsed the HEPA filter as being the absolute best filter in cleansing the air. The only thing that a HEPA filter cannot remove from the air is a vapor or a gas.
A HEPA filter works pretty much the same way any other filter in an air purifying system works. Basically, the unit pulls air from the room into it with a powerful fan blower through a louvered grill. The air is then passed through the filter, and most of the micro - organisms and particles are removed from it. Then, the filtered air is blown out of the purifier by a fan from a different louvered grill.
The difference between a HEPA filter and any other filter is that it is made of thin fibers of glass. The fibers are formed into a thick paper - like material that is pleated. This means that a HEPA filter has a great amount of glass - paper in it. As the particles in the untreated air try to pass through the thick surface, they cannot, and they instead tend to adhere to it. Thus, the air that leaves this type of air purifying system is cleansed and almost totally free from contaminants.
The germs, bacteria, and viruses that are trapped in a HEPA filter will eventually die because they cannot live in a moisture-free environment. The only way they can thrive, keep growing and multiplying, is if the air that is entering the filter is moist.
If you or someone else in your home has allergies or asthma, a HEPA air purifier can undoubtedly make a difference in your lives. Studies show that young, asthmatic children who had HEPA air cleaners in their bedrooms for almost four months showed a lesser amount of asthma symptoms. Even if asthma or allergies are not a problem to your family, just breathing clean air can be an added bonus in itself. Plus, an air purifier with a HEPA filter can also reduce the amount of dust in your home. This can make keeping your home clean a little bit easier.
2.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtocleansho_sefu.htm
How to clean and sanitize a shower stall
Cleaning the shower is an important if undesirable household task that should be carried out weekly if not more often. When several family members bathe in the same shower, a variety of conditions can evolve that must be take care of before they cause someone to become sick. For example, athlete's food is a common shower problem. Certain kinds of mold that grows in a warm, moist environment can be deadly for someone with an allergy or asthma.
If you are assigned the job of cleaning the shower, here are some tips for going about it.
1. Use a suitable cleanser and cleaning implements. Many housekeepers find a scouring powder useful in cleaning the shower and tub. But be careful that the powder doesn't scratch the finish on your shower. Most won't, but double-check to be sure. A home-made cleaning agent is simple baking soda sprinkled on the surface areas that have been moistened with water, left to sit a few minutes, and then rinsed away. This will remove basic shower scum and stains. It will not, however, kill bacteria or germs.
2. Use a fungicide spray for mold growth that you find in the shower area. It may be any of a variety of colors, but especially green or black. You can use a homemade solution of one teaspoon of bleach to a quart of cold water as long as bleach won't hurt your shower fixtures or finish. Otherwise use a disinfecting product that you can buy from the store. Apply to mold or mildew, and follow the package directions if using a commercial product.
3. Get an old toothbrush for rust stains or hard-to-reach spots around the shower door (unless you use a shower curtain). (Keep the toothbrush separate from others so no one mistakes it and uses it for teeth.) The toothbrush also can help to clean the drain and tiles, along with nooks or crannies that a cloth or sponge might have little effect on.
4. Use a long-handed brush for the higher parts of the wall. Apply cleaning product to the brush and wipe it on that way if you like. Or spray it on (turning your face to avoid contact) and then remove with the brush. Use it also to rinse the walls and top parts of the shower area. Wash it out thoroughly each week when you are done.
5. Don't forget to clean the shower caddy, wash cloth racks, fixtures, drain, and other related areas. Clean the door area thoroughly, inside and out, or remove the curtain and launder it in the washing machine. You may have to use a special cleaning product that removes rust if your home has well water.
Rinse the entire area thoroughly with the brush or by turning the shower head to all angles as it pulses water. Open windows or turn on the fan so the shower can air dry. Wash the floor around the shower, let it dry, and put down clean shower mats or bath rugs, along with clean towels. Now you have a clean shower waiting when you're done with the rest of the cleaning!
3.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleaningfibergl_sdhb.htm
Cleaning fiberglass tubs and showers
Fiberglass bathtubs and showers are a step above the porcelain bathtubs and showers of the past. Although they do not seem to be as durable, they are actually very durable when taken care of. They are easy to clean, and they don’t chip and discolor the way porcelain bathtubs and showers do. They can however become discolored or even ruined without proper care.
How you care for your fiberglass bathtubs and showers depend greatly on the type of water you have. If you have water that contains a high amount of iron, you no doubt have to deal with rust stains on a regular basis. These stains can easily be removed with commercial cleaning products meant for that very purpose. Be sure to read product indications carefully before using something new on your fiberglass bathtubs and showers. They can become damaged if the wrong products are used, or if they are used in the wrong manner.
You may find that rust-removing cleanser works best for cleaning rust stains from your bathtubs and shower stalls. Abrasive cleaning products can be used, but only with generous amounts of water. When not enough water is used, fiberglass can become scratched and dull. The best way to use abrasive cleanser is by making a thin paste. On dark rust stains, let the paste sit for a few minutes before attempting to remove them. This will allow the rust remover to penetrate the stain.
There are also liquid products available that claim to remove rust and minerals deposits effectively. They work okay when the stains are minimal, but they do not do so well on old or more difficult stains. These products will cause burns and irritation to the skin. Wear disposable gloves when handling products used to remove rust and other types of hard water stains and deposits.
The best material to use for cleaning fiberglass bathtubs and showers is a sponge meant especially for cleaning bathroom fixtures. These handy cleaning aides typically have sponge material on one side and a non-abrasive scratch pad on the other. They are great for removing soap scum, ground-in dirt, and hard water stains. They dry quickly and are usually long lasting. A cloth rag doesn’t do the job nearly as well as a bathroom sponge. Keep extras on hand with your cleaning supplies. They will eventually begin to disintegrate after regular use.
A good home remedy for cleaning fiberglass bathroom fixtures is a mixture of turpentine and salt. In an area with adequate ventilation, combine about 1 cup of salt with 6 tablespoons of turpentine. Use a bathroom sponge or a nylon brush to clean the entire surface, and be sure to rinse it thoroughly when you are finished. The surface will sparkle and shine.
If your water is soft and rust stains are not a factor, a simple paste of baking soda and water will do the trick. Sprinkle a generous amount of baking soda in the bottom of your fiberglass shower stall or bathtub. Make a paste with water, and briskly clean the surface using a bath sponge or nylon brush. Rinse it thoroughly and it will be as clean as a whistle. The baking soda will freshen and clean the drains as well.
To prevent further stains or grime on your fiberglass bathtubs and shower stalls, give them a coat of wax intended for use on fiberglass boats. It will give them a brilliant shine, protect the surface, and help repel stains. Reapply the wax when it becomes necessary.
Take good care of your fiberglass bathtubs and shower stalls, and they will last a very long time. Keeping them clean and using the proper cleaning supplies will help them to remain in good condition for many years to come.
4.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleanhomeh_sero.htm
How to clean home heating vents
Looking at your home's heating vents, you may think they look just fine. After all, warm air blows through them regularly in the winter, so that will obviously remove any dust or debris that might otherwise cause problems, right?
Not necessarily. Heating vents take a lot of use and abuse during the entire year, not just winter. Although warm air circulates through the house only during the cold months, the vents become targets for flying objects like shoes, they attract and hold pet hair and dander, and they may become a depository for a curious toddler's small toys, coins, or vitamins.
To keep your vents operating efficiently and to deal with problems like those outlined above, here are a few tips for cleaning these important areas of air exchange in your home:
1. Keep the vent areas free of clutter. Don’t' stack boxes, magazines, or other items in front of the vents, and don't push furniture in their way, either. The vents promote the ventilation of warm air throughout each room in the house. When not in use, close one or more vents, but never cover or obstruct them when in use. Encourage family members to keep personal items away the vents in all living areas.
2. Dust, mop, or vacuum around the vents weekly. If you look closely, you may see a thin trail of dust or furnace debris around the exterior of the vent. Wipe the surrounding wall space. On light surfaces you may be able to see dust particles. Keep the external areas wiped clean to prevent an accumulation of grit or grime.
3. Unscrew the vents and carefully remove foreign objects. These may include the above-mentioned coins, pills, toys, or other small objects that have been accidentally or deliberately tossed into the vent grate. If something cannot be reached by hand, look for an appropriate-size handle-type object with which to retrieve the lost item. Be careful not to get burned or shocked, depending on the structure behind the grate.
4. Gently vacuum inside the vent. Look for the largest clumps of dust and get these first. Then sweep the air generally to get rid of particles, dust bunnies, pet hair, and other debris that may be collecting inside the vent. Since warm air will push out these minute items into the air that family members breathe during the winter, you want to get rid of as much as you can to keep it from circulating throughout the house. Do this for all the vents you can safely reach.
5. Clean the grates. Wipe them clean with a damp cloth, watching for rusty metal areas so you don't get scratched. Replace the grates when you are done, screwing them in tightly so they will not come loose, but not so tightly that you strip the bolts. Clean up the resulting debris, if any, that may have jarred loose as you removed and cleaned the grate. You may want to wash nearby curtains or wipe off furniture if the vacuuming and cleaning caused some of the dust to swirl around.
Clean vents can help to purify the air that everyone breathes when the house is closed up in cold weather. Take care of the vents routinely and replace those that are worn, chipped or broken. You may even be able to sense cleaner air in each room!
5.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanhomeholid_scli.htm
How to clean for holiday guests
When you have out of town guests for the holidays, the friendly clutter you live with may not be that inviting to your house guests. Here are some simple suggestions to help you break down the chores you are facing without having such a monstrous job.
One week ahead of guest arrival:
- Clean out the refrigerator. Throw out any leftovers and clean the condiment containers free of any gunk that tends to form around the lids. Wipe out the refrigerator both on the inside and outside and clean off the top. Add a new box of baking soda.
- Clean the oven. You may find it easier to spray it down with an oven cleaner when you start the kitchen and then leave it until last to give the cleaner time to do the bulk of the work for you.
- Clean the windows. Clean both the inside and outside if you have time; otherwise, make sure the inside of the windows are clean.
- Clean and polish the silver. Pull out the guest china and give it a good wash and rinse. Launder and press the table linens.
- Clean and dust all the light fixtures. Remove the glass fixtures to make cleaning easier. Wash with mild detergent and rinse clean before replacing.
- Clean and dust the ceiling fans. You may find it easier to lay down a drop cloth if the fans have been neglected to keep the dust from flying all over the room and increasing your work load.
- Dust the baseboards and windowsills. Wash down the windowsills with detergent and water if a simple dusting will not clean them sufficiently.
- Clean and dust all knick-knacks, books, vases, picture frames, etc.
- Remove any stains from the upholstery and carpet.
- Clean the corners of the room free of any cobwebs.
- Vacuum the rugs and furniture. Move the furniture around and clean and vacuum underneath it.
- Launder bed linens and put clean, fresh linens on the guest bed. Make sure you have an extra set or two for unexpected last minute guest arrivals.
Two Days before Guest Arrival:
- Clean the microwave oven. In a glass bowl, add a tablespoon of baking soda to a cup of water. Microwave on high for five minutes and wipe clean with a paper towel.
- Scrub the top of the stove. Check and see if the interior needs to be wiped down again with a clean sponge.
- Clean bathrooms including sinks, toilets, tubs and showers. Sweep and mop the bathroom floor. Give extra attention to the corners and around the edge of the toilet and tub.
- Walk through the house and remove all clutter. Put away toys, shoes and any excess newspapers or magazines.
- Re-dust the entire house including the TV and computer screen. A dryer sheet will help clean the TV and computer screen free of dust and will help keep them dust free.
Day before arrival of guests:
- Clean the bathroom floors and mirrors. Make sure you have sufficient towels and soap. Replace air fresher or add a bowl of fresh potpourri.
- Wipe down all the chrome in the house to be free of fingerprints. Don’t forget the front of the appliances in the kitchen.
- Scrub out the kitchen sink. Pay special attention to the garbage disposal and clean the rubber ring around the top of the sink. Make sure you clean the gunk that tends to form along the edge of the sink.
- Sweep the front porch and walkway.
- Double check the guest bedroom. Make sure you have extra blankets and linens, a reading lamp, nightlight and clock available for your guest use.
- Empty all trash cans.
On the day your guests arrive:
- Simmer a small pot on the stove with a cinnamon stick and a few cloves to give your house the added fragrance of home cooking.
6.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleangarage_sdix.htm
How to clean the garage
Have you ever known someone that uses a garage just for storage? Instead of parking the car inside for shelter, those people leave the car exposed to the weather's elements in order to keep a roof over boxes, equipment, and assorted odds and ends.
Keeping your car in the garage will preserve its appearance, keep it running more effectively, and make for a comfortable start in the morning when you don't have time to scrape ice from the windshield. Here are some tips for getting your garage cleaned up and ready for use:
1. Remove everything from the garage. Get rid of trash. Call the salvage store to pick up your donations of equipment and appliances. Install a peg board for tools and supplies. Everything else, including pet supplies, should be taken outside to air out on a sunny day, weather permitting, so you can tackle the garage.
2. Use a broom to sweep down the ceiling and walls. It is probably a good idea to cover your head and perhaps to wear an inexpensive respirator, the flimsy kind that fits loosely over your nose and mouth. This will help to prevent your inhalation of dust and germs. Make sweeping motions away from yourself as you brush away cobwebs, insect nests, and accumulated debris.
3. Then sweep out the entire garage floor. If there are paper wads or large dust balls, collect these with a dustpan and place in a box or bag for the trash. Dust, sand, and dirt, unless in massive amounts, can probably be swept into the flower bed or lawn. Be sure to get the corners and any nooks or crannies where dust likes to hide.
4. Wash the garage windows if you have them. Use a window cleaner or make your own from a home recipe you can find in a cleaning book or the Internet. Wipe dry with a paper towel to avoid streaking. If there are curtains or blinds, wash these separately, but don't re hang them until the floor is clean. Wipe shelves, cupboards, and other fixtures to remove any lingering dirt.
5. Run a bucket of hot, soapy water and pour it over the garage floor, assuming you have a concrete base. If you have cats and keep kitty litter in the garage, be sure to wash that area thoroughly, but be careful not to use soap with ingredients that could interact with the cats' urine. (Read directions carefully.) Rinse the broom and use it to spread the water over the entire garage floor, scratching at stuck dirt until it loosens and is washed away. Sweep the water toward the drain or outdoors. Rinse with clean water.
Keep the garage door open. If there is a back entrance, open it and the windows as well for cross ventilation. This will help to air out the place and help it dry sooner. Then bring in the items that will remain in the garage, organizing them along the walls neatly, and only what is truly needed. Additional items should be stored elsewhere.
Now you are ready to pull your car into the garage and enjoy your new vehicle's new home.
7.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleanbaseme_sdiy.htm
How to clean the basement
One of those household chores that we like to postpone indefinitely is cleaning the basement. We make all sorts of promises and offer ourselves bribes to get it done, but somehow the basement cleaning typically falls to the bottom of the list.
If you need to get your basement cleaned out, here are some tips that might make it seem a little more manageable.
1. Start early in the day. Most of us have more energy in the morning as our biological clocks get reset when the sun rises. Schedule a day in advance when you won't have to stop mid-way through this task to run an errand or meet a friend. Get supplies ready and have them waiting at the foot of the steps. Grab head and mouth covers and get started bright and early. Don't answer the phone if it rings unless absolutely necessary.
2. Begin with the area furthest away from the steps. Use the brightest light possible, and plug in an extra floor lamp if needed. You may want to open some windows or turn on a fan to keep the air circulating. The most distant area may be a former coal room, storage closet, or dim corner. Remove everything from that area. Toss out worn, broken, or unneeded items that have accumulated over time.
3. After covering your hair with a hat or scarf and your mouth and nose with a paper respirator, sweep down the rafters or ceiling and the walls. Watch for spiders and get all the cobwebs. Then sweep up the floor debris into a pile and scoop it into a dustpan. Now replace storage items that need to stay in this area, after wiping them clean and checking to be sure they are still in working order. Also check for signs of ants, mice, or other unwanted guests, and if spotted, leave a trap or other means of eliminating them.
4. Move on to the next area and repeat the process. You may have to shift around furniture or appliances as well as stored boxes, cartons, and containers. If you find unmarked ones, find out what's inside and attach a label with this information for future reference. For random items laying around you may want to start new storage boxes, marking them appropriately.
5. Clean each section thoroughly, one area at a time, until you have worked through the entire basement area. You can either tackle the appliances as you move through each section, dusting and wiping these clean as well, or save them all to the end when you have cleared the walls and floor. Get rid of everything you don't need, such as old furniture, bags of outgrown clothing, and other forgotten items. The rule of thumb is that if you haven't used it in the past year or two, you probably won't. Make exceptions for sentimental things of course, like the kids' artwork or baby items.
Air out the basement when you're done by keeping windows open or the fan on for an hour or two afterwards. Make it a point to touch up the basement every few months to prevent an accumulation of hard work in the future.
8.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleanattic_sdiz.htm
How to clean the attic
An attic is not always the greatest place to be. Often dark, sometimes small, and usually crowded, the attic typically is used for storing things that are unwanted or unneeded. Year after year, cartons, bags, and piles of homeless items accumulate to little purpose. Eventually, you will need to sort through the rubble and clean the area thoroughly. Here are a few tips.
1. Work on one section at a time. Depending on the size of your attic, chances are you may not have a lot of elbow room, and you don't want to carry heavy things up and down stairs while you clean. Push furniture to one side, along with other stored items. But be careful not to get hurt. Try to get a family member or friend to help with the most cumbersome pieces. If no one else is available, push a few inches at a time, or take apart a box or stack of things to move it in pieces. No cleaning job is worth your physical well-being.
2. As you move things, sort them into piles. Items that you are sure you no longer need, like the 1980 telephone directory, can go into a pile for trash pickup. Other things, like the tiny new dress you've been trying to lose fifty pounds to wear for the past ten years; can go to the thrift store. Children's school projects or old photograph albums should be set aside for more adequate storage protection.
3. After clearing a space, start cleaning. Use a dust mop or a broom covered by a cleaning cloth to dust the ceiling, rafters (if any), walls, and floor. You may have to change the cloth or shake the dust mop frequently. Then, depending on the composition and structure of your walls and floor, clean them with appropriate substances. Bare wood may benefit from a slightly damp cloth. Check with someone who works in a building supply store to be sure. A quick phone call should do it.
4. Sweep, mop, or wipe the floor, collecting debris in a dustpan. Look for signs of pests, such as mice tracks or dead insects. You may need to set out traps to eliminate unwanted pests. Clean windows and wash curtains or blinds. If there are storage shelves, drawers, or cupboards, wipe these off, too. Get rid of all visible dust and cobwebs.
5. Replace the items you moved by arranging them in a convenient manner. Put the heaviest items along the wall and place smaller items on top of or beneath them for easy access. If you have random items, like a lamp, some old sweaters, and a back pack, put these in a box and mark the outside of it to indicate the contents for quick reference when these items may be needed.
Move on to the next section and repeat the process. Don't be discouraged if you can't do it all in one day. Rome wasn't built in a day, and neither was your attic clutter. Congratulate yourself on the portions you are able to complete, and plan the remainder for another day soon.
9.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleanshed_sdia.htm
How to clean the shed
When most of us think of housecleaning chores, an image of indoor rooms comes to mind. But we shouldn't overlook the need to care for outdoor areas, too. The shed, where tools and equipment are typically stored, needs a fair share of attention to keep things clean, well-maintained, and organized. Otherwise, they won't last as long as they could and we might not be able to find them when they are needed.
To clean the shed, begin with basics. Take everything out of it and place it outside. Do this on a nice day so nothing will get rained on or incur damage from freezing temperatures. Organize all that you find outdoors into categories. Sometimes old trash gets stuffed in a shed as a temporary measure, and then is forgotten. Look for empty containers, half-filled bags of rubbish, or broken items that are no longer usable. Discard these to make room for the items that can still be used. Make a note of anything you will need to replace.
Arrange the inside shed space efficiently. Buy a wall shelf unit or build your own. Set smaller things like cans of paint or solvent, cleaning supplies, lawn equipment, and repair tools on the shelves. The floor area should be reserved just for larger equipment, like the mower, trimmer, and edger. Keep these outside until you've cleaned the shed's interior. Be sure not to mix volatile chemicals or place them too close to each other. Look for potential fire or explosion hazards, like stored gasoline.
Check the builder's instructions, if you have them, for recommended cleaning and maintenance methods. Depending on the substance from which your shed was constructed, chances are you may be able to wash it down. But if not, and if you have a constructed floor instead of dirt, wash it instead. First you sweep down the ceiling and walls to get rid of dusty cobwebs. Look for signs of pest infestation or mold, and treat these with the appropriate substances.
Now you're ready to clean the floor. If the floor is made of wood, use a soap that won't damage it with a broom to scrub the water over the floorboards. Rinse thoroughly. Keep doors and windows open so the shed can air-dry. Then wash the windows using clean water or a window cleaner with a different cloth. If you have a window box, door design, or other decoration, take care of these at the same time by removing weeds or dead leaves from planters and touching up the trim with a quick coat of paint.
When everything is dry, you start moving in the large equipment. Arrange it so you can get the biggest items out without having to remove too many other things. Close and latch the door to keep out unwanted animals.
The shed is an important part of your property since it houses tools that you need to keep everything in order. Failing to check for and repair leaks, cracks, or other damage can lead to ruined tools or chemicals. Take care of your shed in the same way as you do your home, and you should be able to use your outdoor equipment for years to come.
10.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/wheredusthome_sddj.htm
Where to dust your home?
When you think about dusting your home as part of the weekly household chores, you may not know where to begin or when to stop. After all, dusting can mean simply wiping off wooden, metal, or plastic surfaces, or it may include vacuuming the dust of fabric furniture. Let's focus on non-fabric surfaces.
If you begin in the living or family rooms, start with the large items. Take a clean dust cloth and lightly spray it with furniture polish or dust remover. Take away everything like newspapers, mail, and dishes from atop furniture items like the piano, end tables, and desk. Wipe these surfaces clear of dust, allowing the cloth to linger on grooves, edges, and contours to remove all lint and hair. Don't forget to wipe down the legs, sides, handles, or other extensions of such furniture.
Next, move on to the dining room and dust the table, if uncovered, and all seating chairs, using a fresh application of furniture polish after folding the cleaning cloth. Also run the cloth over the buffet or china cabinet, wall shelves, window frames, and picture frames. Look for moldings, baseboards, and door trim along with the doors themselves that might benefit from a dusting. Do the same thing in the kitchen, though there may be less furniture to dust there. Take care not to move dust around food or cooking pans.
In the bedrooms, remove everything from the tops of dressers and chests of drawers. Dust top surfaces, sides, fronts, and feet, as well as their backs if you can get to them against the wall. Don't forget closet doors, door moldings, wall hangings, and baseboards, along with other bedroom furniture like quilt racks, beside tables and radio clocks, or hope chests.
In your bathroom, the dust-covered surfaces may include medicine cabinets, counter space, storage cupboards, window and door moldings, bathtub casings, towel racks, wall décor, shower bars, potted plants, and more baseboards. Laundry baskets or hampers should be cleaned separately, as they require special antibacterial attention. Fixtures like the toilet paper holder, toothbrush holder, and soap dish may need to be dusted as well.
Attach a clean cloth over a dust mop or broom to reach high places, such as light shades or coverings, ceiling fans, and wall hangings or decorator items.
Occasionally you may want to place a clean cloth, without furniture polish, on a clean dust mop and wipe down every wall in the house. Perhaps yearly you can think about washing walls, but that's another story.
In other rooms, be sure to dust chairs and their feet, exercise equipment, storage areas, and files or records. Be careful with smoke alarms and monitors. Dust picture or award glass frames with a clean cloth minus the polish. Throughout the house you dust window sills, shelves, clocks, and other miscellaneous items.
Keeping your home dust-free will help keep your family healthy by reducing or eliminating allergens and omitting bacteria that can be spread through manual contact. Dust your home weekly for best results, adding a little extra shine to the nicer wood pieces. Then kick back and enjoy your lovely, clean home!
11.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/housecleaningt_sdme.htm
The importance to use the proper cleaning product
Using the right products is necessary in order to complete cleaning duties around the home effectively and efficiently. This lessens the overall time it takes to clean, and cleaning is usually accomplished with less effort. It’s also important to use the right cleaning products so surfaces do not become damaged.
It’s very important to read labels on cleaning products. They generally list product uses as well as precautions and solutions. Following the directions will help you decide the proper uses for your household cleaning products. If you are unsure about using a product on a particular surface, name-brand items usually list toll-free numbers in which to call the company for assistance. Trained professionals can usually answer any questions you have about the product, and they can provide you with helpful tips and ideas on using them to their fullest potential. They may even send you cents-off manufacturer coupons and samples of other products they manufacture.
If you want to remove rust from a non-porous surface, chances are you won’t be able to remove it with basic cleanser. The cleanser must contain chemicals that effectively remove rust. The most commonly used chemical for rust removal is oxalic acid.
Rust stains on porous surfaces such as material will actually become intensified if the wrong cleaning products are used. Straight bleach and cleaning products containing bleach will worsen rust stains. The stains will become darker and much more apparent. If you have well water, do not use bleach to clean and brighten white material. Instead, use a product especially for material that contains oxalic acid. It will remove and prevent rust stains from permanently discoloring and ruining clothing and other material.
If your water is basically soft, and if mineral deposits are not a problem, you can use mild non-abrasive products to clean kitchen and bathroom fixtures. If you clean on a regular basis, these products will generally remove soap scum and grime.
If your water is hard, you will need something to keep mineral deposits under control. Calcium, rust, and lime deposits can build up very quickly. Go over bathroom and kitchen fixtures at least once a week to prevent permanent damage from mineral build-up. Rinse fixtures thoroughly to prevent discoloration and pitting caused by strong mineral-removing chemicals.
Products labeled as being “all-purpose” cleaners are not necessarily good for every surface. This is why reading the entire label is very important. Products containing strong chemicals such as ammonia may permanently damage laminates and other plastic surfaces. Strong cleaners are not always necessary to get the job done. The best solution for shiny plastic surfaces is mild soap and warm water. Allowing the surface to remain wet for several minutes before wiping is usually enough to loosen stubborn grease and food particles. Dry the clean surface with a soft towel, and it will sparkle and shine like it did when it was new.
Appliances and fixtures can actually be cleaned too much. Using strong commercial cleaners day after day and week after week is damaging. Sometimes the best cleaners are natural cleaners such as baking soda and vinegar. These natural products are cheap and effective. Use them wherever possible to save money as well as prevent chemical damage to the surfaces of appliances, fixtures, and other items in and around your home.
When in doubt, avoid using commercial cleaners. Instead, contact the maker of the item in question. They will be able to advise you on proper cleaning and maintenance of their product. It’s better to be safe and take the time to find out which cleaner is best, rather than hastily use a product that could very cause permanent damage.
12.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howcleanveneti_scjt.htm
How to clean Venetian blinds
Clean, shiny windows and their coverings add a neat touch to a home. But getting around to doing the work and finding the best way to do it can take time, effort, and money. If your windows are covered by Venetian blinds, you may feel overwhelmed by the prospect of dusting or wiping each vinyl, plastic, or wooden slat. But don't give up; here are a few tips that can make this job more manageable.
1. Clean the blinds in one room at a time. Trying to tackle every Venetian blind in the house can be overwhelming and time-consuming. If it turns out that you can get to each blind in a day or two, great. But if not, you can always return to the task in another room at a future date, and no one will be the wiser.
2. Dust the blinds periodically. Using a feather duster or a damp cloth, open the Venetian blinds so that slats are horizontal and you can see through them to the window. Use your duster or the cloth to wipe each slat, starting at the top and working your way down to the bottom. That way, the dust that falls from one slat to the next can be caught by the duster when it moves to the lower level. Be sure to dust top and bottom of the slats, as well as the structural bars that hold the blinds together. Dusting periodically will help to prevent a buildup of dust and grime, and making washing the blinds much easier.
3. When washing the blinds, use a mild detergent in a bucket of water into which you can dip a soft cloth. Have another bucket of clear water handy for rinsing. You can carry out this task in different ways. One method is to wash or scrub the slats in the same manner as you dust them. That is, leave them open and hanging while you steady each slat with one hand while wiping off accumulated grime with the soapy cloth. Don't use too much soap or you could leave a sticky residue. Dampen a second clean scrub cloth with water only and re-wipe the slats to rinse away soap residue and any remaining grit.
4. Another method is to take down the blinds and soak them for an hour or two in a bathtub of soapy water. Remove the wash water and re-fill the tub with clear hot water, replacing the blinds in the tub for a fifteen-minute rinse. Remove them and hang them on the windows once more.
5. A third way to wash the blinds is to take them down and spread them out on a large table as you wipe them down with the two cloths, one soapy and the other clear water for rinsing. The advantage to this method over wiping them while they are hanging is that you can handle them easier for a potentially more effective wash.
6. Let their air dry or use a soft towel. If they air dry, don't let them drip on the floor. Spread newspaper under them or wipe briefly with a cloth before hanging them up again.
Your room will actually feel fresher after cleaning the blinds this way, and the light coming through your windows may seem brighter! If you can find an hour or two for this task, you will appreciate the payoff.
13.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtocleanboo_seck.htm
How to clean book shelves
As a child, did you ever take a shortcut when asked to dust the book shelves? When you mother wasn't looking, perhaps you simply dusted the top of the books and the visible edge of the shelf, saving the rest for another day that never came.
While such shortcuts may seem worthwhile when you have a lot to do, in the long run it's a bad idea not to care properly for your books and their shelves. For one thing, if a guest pulls out a volume to look at, you'll be embarrassed by the trail of dust that follows the book. Another concern is that if your books continue collecting dust, they may develop mold or mildew over time and eventually suffer damage.
Follow a few easy steps to provide your book shelves with proper care:
1. Dust the shelves periodically. If you can't get to it each week, at least try for once a month. Don't let this task go too long or your books may pay the price for your neglect. Collect the best cleaning materials for whatever substance the shelves are made of, such as wood, hard vinyl, or metal. Then when you do get around to the job, you'll be ready to get started. Use a soft cloth with perhaps a little polish for wood, a damp cloth possibly enhanced by rust inhibitor for metal, and a plain damp cloth with a little bit of gentle cleaner for hard vinyl.
2. Remove all books from the shelves first. You may want to set them in each row of order on a separate surface, such as on a table or the floor. That way, when you replace them, you won't need to sort and organize them again, which could take a considerable amount of time depending on how many tomes you have. Dust each book's cover, back, spine, and top, bottom, and sides before setting it with its mates. Those that appear especially dusty may benefit from a gentle opening and shaking. Avoid using moisture or a cleaning product on the books.
3. Prepare the proper cleaning substance and cloth for the type of shelf structure you are using, wipe it carefully to avoid splinters and to prevent excess moisture from seeping into the surface, as may be the case with wood. You don't want water dripping into the screws that hold together a metal shelf, either, or you could see some rust build-up later. Wipe each shelf, the fixtures that secure them to each other and to the general framework or even the wall, and if possible, move out free-standing models to clean the floor beneath the unit. Also wipe off the wall behind it, catching spider webs or dust bunnies in the process.
4. Allow the shelves to air-dry or mop up extra moisture with an old towel or clean cloth. Keep a window or door open to promote healthy air circulation, which will help to kill bacteria and promote quick drying. Inspect corners, screw assemblies, and brackets to make sure you have removed all bits of dust and debris.
5. Return the books in their proper order to the shelves. Review each area once more as you fill the shelves with books to see if you have missed anything and to be sure the area is completely dry. Dust nearby walls, furniture, and other fixtures to prevent a build-up that can spill over onto the shelves with air currents.
Clean shelves can help to protect and preserve your book collection. Don't neglect this important task when you plan the routine housekeeping chores.
14.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/stainremovalcl_seed.htm
How to remove crayon marks from the wall
If you have young children there’s a good chance you have an assortment of crayons as well. Everyone likes to offer encouragement to a budding artist. When the artist uses the wall as his canvas however, you have problems. It used to be quite difficult to remove crayon from the wall, and young artwork would become a semi-permanent feature – at least until the next painting day. This isn’t the case anymore. There are plenty of ways to rid your walls of unwanted crayon.
What you use to remove crayon should also depend on your choice of wall covering. Certain paints will come off when harsh cleaners are used. Wallpaper can fade or peel off when chemicals are applied. When it comes to your walls, it’s best to use a method that is as gentle as possible. For best results, first test your cleaning product on a hidden area such as a closet wall or the wall in the back of a cabinet, this may save you from further damage.
It’s said that you can remove crayon from your walls by wiping the area with lighter fluid or a commercial spot cleaner. This is one occasion where you will definitely need to test on a hidden area first. There are plenty of other solutions however, if this seems too aggressive.
You can try a lubricant such as WD-40. Crayon lifts easily from the wall when this is applied. Just sponge on and sponge off.
A paste of baking soda and water may work. Sprinkle a little baking soda on a damp sponge and clean the stain using gentle pressure. Baking soda is very mild and shouldn’t damage your walls in the least.
Since crayons are made of wax, it’s possible that all you need is a warm iron. Just place a couple of sheets of paper towel over the marks and press the iron gently on the towel until the marks are removed. Don’t use an iron that’s hot, the last thing you want is to replace the crayon scribblings with scorch marks. You can also use a warm hair dryer to soften the crayon. Wipe clean with a damp sponge or towel.
Try rubbing your walls with a dryer sheet or baby wipe, these too are helpful when it comes to crayon removal. You may have to apply a little elbow grease, but these methods should not inflict any damage on to your walls.
Applying hand lotion is also said to work. Just rub the lotion into the crayon mark and wipe clean using a damp sponge. If the wall is a little greasy from the lotion, sponge with a mild dishwashing liquid (one containing no bleaches or alkalis) diluted in some warm water and wipe dry with a cloth or paper towel.
A white, non-gel toothpaste, applied gently with an old toothbrush (for the sake of good hygiene, please don’t use the one intended for your everyday tooth brushing.) can also remove crayon from the wall. Wipe clean with a damp sponge or cloth.
If your little Rembrandt paints a mural across your wall, don’t get out the ladder and paint brush. There are plenty of options for cleaning your walls, most of which are found right in your home.
15.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtocleantoi_seeg.htm
How to clean the toilet?

None of us likes to do it, but we all appreciate the results of having a clean toilet in the bathroom. Some people have two or three bathrooms, or even more, in their homes, so they may have several toilets to clean. Though it may seem like a simple task, scrubbing the toilet actually encompasses several separate steps. Omitting even one of them can detract from the odor- and germ-free bathroom environment everyone prefers and guests will note.
Remove bathroom rugs and the toilet seat cover, if you have one. Consider wearing rubber or plastic gloves to protect your hands. Start by scrubbing the toilet bowl. Raise the seat. Add a small amount of bathroom cleaner, perhaps the size of a quarter. Use shampoo or baking soda if you don't have any cleaner in the house. Swish the cleaner through the water with the toilet cleaning brush to make foaming suds. Then gently brush water against the sides of the bowl and under the lip of the seat. Scrub away stains, spots, and debris, concentrating the brush activity at the bottom of the bowl. If you have well water, you may need to intensify your scrubbing of the bowl's bottom where the water typically sits to remove rust stains or sediment. After scrubbing, flush the toilet and wait to see if most of the grime is removed. If not, repeat the process.
Next, dampen a clean scrub cloth with warm water and a small amount of cleaner, and then rinse it to remove extra soap. Wipe the top and bottom of the toilet seat and rinse the cloth. Then wash the water tank behind the toilet, including front and sides, and as much of the back area as you can reach. Finally, wipe all sides of the pedestal bowl and the adjacent floor and wall areas.
If the cleaner does not include disinfectant, add a squirt of disinfectant soap or scent, or a dash of spray to the bowl first, and then to the scrub cloth to kill residual germs. You can either wipe off extra moisture or allow it to air dry. If possible, open the bathroom windows or door to vent the area well. Fresh air adds a secondary enhancement in purifying the toxic air.
You may want to place a toilet bowl deodorizer on the lip of the pedestal. These devices can remove scented cleaning product with each flush to keep the bowl clean and fresh. Or you can place a plug-in deodorizer in a wall socket to freshen the entire room.
Finish the bathroom by wiping down adjoining surfaces, including the vanity or sink, floor, and lower wall space. Empty the dirty water, put down clean rugs, and you're done! Stock antibacterial soap at the sink and tub areas so all bathroom users can wash their hands after each visit to prevent the spread of germs. Change towels every few days for the same reason. Don't let your toilets become permanently stained or foul-smelling. Take a few minutes each week to maintain their appearance, scent, and function
16.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtobegoodh_sekm.htm
How to be a good housekeeper
Housekeeping is not typically an exciting or rewarding duty. It's one of those things we all have to do in order to make home life comfortable.
Even if you're on a tight schedule, though, completing just minutes of housework a day can make your entire home neat and clean. Here are the basics on getting started.
1. Get organized. Buy the supplies you need to cover the basic chores. These might include a broom, dust mop, floor mop, bucket, scrub cloths, cleaning products, and any scrubbing devices you may need for the stove or sink, for example. Watch for sales and buy in volume so you don't have to run out at the last minute just when you're ready to get started. Keep everything in the same place each week so it will be there when you look for something.
2. Have a plan. Some people prefer to do all their housework at one time, say Thursday evening or Saturday morning. Others "chunk" their chores by doing certain tasks each day, like laundry on Monday, sweeping on Tuesday, mopping on Wednesday, etc. However you want to do it, set aside time on a regular basis to make sure things get done. If you wait until you "feel like it" or the work piles up to become unavoidable, you are likely to postpone things until they seem overwhelming or get completely or correctly done.
3. Pick it up. Each day do a quick sweep of the main rooms and put away the clutter that has accumulated. This might include newspapers, mail, coats, shoes, etc. Explain to family members that they can help keep the house looking and feeling great for everyone when they put their own things away each day. Include this pick-up chore on the kids' work charts, and reward or punish them accordingly. A neat-looking house is the first step toward a clean house. Just getting things out of the way will give you more room to move around and complete the cleaning process when you actually get to it.
4. Delegate. Ask whoever shares your home to share the housework, too. Even a toddler can pick up her toys or learn to make his bed. By the time a teen is ready to leave home, he or she should be able to manage an entire household, so start assigning training sessions at an early age. Encourage your spouse to choose a few regular chores as well, and give out impressive rewards, like a special meal or quality romance time.
5. Don't expect perfection. If you do, others and you will only disappoint you. Try to get the house looking neat and basically clean each week, but if chores get interrupted by illness or unexpected guests, live with it. The number of compliments you can receive on a home that is tidy if not scrubbed surprise you. If you feel pressure to do a more comprehensive job of house cleaning, set aside a little extra time from your schedule to get caught up. Or portion some household money to buy a few hours of maid service.
Organization and preparation are two of the best starts to becoming a better housekeeper. Work on improving one step at a time, and before you know it, the entire house will look better and its residents will be impressed.
17.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtocleankit_seos.htm
How to clean a kitchen sink
Cleaning the kitchen sink is not a fun chore. Home of spilled foods and garbage deposits that have left their mark over time, the sink is a challenge to even the most devout housekeepers.
To tackle this job with the right tools, assemble a cleaning product, a scrub cloth, and gloves for your hands. Remove all dishes or pans from the sink and surrounding area. Use a paper towel to scrape up any residual chunks of food debris and throw these away. Now all you have left is the onerous task of the sink itself.
Lightly moisten the sink with water, wetting the scrub cloth at the same time. Sprinkle cleaning agent around the sink basin and let it set a few minutes. Now you're ready to begin.
Start by putting on the gloves and then applying the cloth with a small, circular hand motion, taking the sink one section at a time. Rub firmly and steadily to help the cleaning substance do its job. View the basin as divided into quadrants. Scrub any quadrant first, and then move on to the second, third, and fourth, until you have completely scoured the sink.
Next, rinse your cloth but let the soap continue to work while you finish the top area. Tackle the sides and the upper section where the faucet and water knobs are located. Wipe these firmly with the cloth, rubbing it along grooves, corners, and edges to remove all traces of debris.
Rinse the cloth again with hot water, taking care not to splash it on your skin. Now wipe down the surrounding counter and rear splashguard or tile, whatever stands behind the sink area. If it's a window, you will need to clean this separately with another clean cloth and window washing solution.
Now rinse clean all surfaces. Begin by thoroughly rinsing your scrub cloth and use it to wipe away residual detergent. Remove the stopper and wash it, too, along with the entry opening to the drain. Be careful not to snag the cloth or injure your fingers, and never try to force your hand into a small opening in the drain. Stay at the surface and merely wipe visible areas.
Let hot water finish the rinse portion of this task. You may need to wet the cloth occasionally and use it to rinse surfaces the tap water can't get to. Use a paper towel or old, clean cloth to absorb extra moisture after the job is done.
For stubborn stains, apply an extra bit of cleaner directly and allow it to sit fifteen to thirty minutes. Then scrub them again. It may take several applications over the course of a few weeks to remove all visible spots.
Keep your sink clean by wiping up spills or debris immediately. This will help to prevent drain clogs and odors, too. Run hot water through the sink occasionally to dissolve leftover residue. Never pour leftover grease down the drain. If you have a garbage disposal, never put your hand into the opening. This appliance will clean itself when you follow the instruction guide that came with it or contact an appliance dealership that sells them.
18.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/howtocleantoa_seot.htm
How to clean the toaster
Larger kitchen appliances seem to get the lion's share of cleaning detail. The dishwasher, stove, microwave, and even the blender become part of the routine process of cleaning the kitchen.
But we don't want to overlook smaller appliances, especially those that get used quite often, like the toaster. Whether it sits on the kitchen counter or a side table, or is stored in a cupboard after each use, it needs to be cleaned occasionally, too. Add this small appliance to your list of clean-up chores on a monthly basis. Soon you'll get used to the idea of including this item in your list of duties. Here's how to do the job:
1. Unplug the toaster and move it near the sink. Bring a trashcan close by for easy access. In lieu of these, you can spread a piece of newspaper on the counter or the table to catch the crumbs as you clean them out.
2. Lift the appliance and open the small grate underneath. Gently shake the toaster until accumulated crumbs in the bottom fall out onto the newspaper, into the sink, or in the trash container. This may take several efforts or a few minutes to disengage all accumulated debris, especially if it has been a while since the last cleaning. Try to hold the toaster steady in dislodging the crumbs so they don’t fly in all directions.
3. Take a plastic knife or any piece of cutlery and gently scrape the rest of the crumbs from the bottom of the toaster. Then reach into the top and bottom openings of the appliance to tap or scrape the internal wires to loosen baked on debris. Look inside to find trapped deposits from burned toast or built up caches of crumbs. Tap these lightly until they crumble out. This may take several minutes if the toaster has not been cleaned in some time, or if several family members frequently use it.
4. When you are satisfied that most of the crumbs have been removed, latch the bottom of the toaster to close it. Take a slightly damp cloth and wipe the cord and plug clean of dust. Wipe the area where the toaster usually sits, as well as surrounding appliances or wall space. This includes any cupboard faces or bottoms that are located near the toaster.
5. Then lightly moisten a clean cloth with clear warm water. Firmly wipe the outside of the toaster to remove crumbs, smudges, and fingerprints. Don't forget the dials, knobs, and other cooking indicators or surfaces. If it has a stainless steel finish, daub a clean cloth with a small amount of rubbing alcohol. Shine the toaster's surface to remove all traces of grime or wear. (Do not use alcohol inside the toaster.) Let the appliance air dry.
Plug it back in when you are done, first checking to be sure there is no lingering alcohol scent on the appliance, as this may be flammable. Now you are ready for fresh, hot toast! Repeat the process at least monthly or more often if your toaster enjoys frequent use.
19.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleanclothesdr_secf.htm
How to clean the clothes dryer and vents
Do you ever notice that after the clothes dryer runs for awhile, it starts taking longer for the clothes to get dry? Then your gas or electric bill starts getting higher. If you have a big family, you could be talking about a lot of money. To maximize your dryer’s heating efficiency and fuel operation, here are a few things to keep in mind.
First, make sure that all appliances are level. Put a level on top and check that the bubble is between the lines. The legs usually are adjustable with a wrench. See that it remains level because if it does not, the machine can actually “walk,” which means it can move a few inches from where it is sitting. The dryer should be leveled both from the top and from side to side. Once you have the top level by adjusting the legs with a wrench, you need to level it from back to front on top of the dryer. Unplug it before you get started. Then hold the level perpendicular to you on the washer. Check the bubble.
After unplugging the dryer, check to be sure the gas is turned off. If you can’t get the gas off, stop until a plumber arrives. When the gas is off, pull out the clothes dryer so you can get behind it. Make sure you have room to work. Now you need to disconnect the hose from the back of it. There is usually a clamp that is holding the hose to the clothes dryer. You will need a screwdriver to remove the clamp. Then rotate the hose where it is connected to the clothes dryer. Disconnect the hose at the point it enters the wall and lay it on the floor. Vacuum the hose with a wand attachment and clean both ends as far back as you can. Take an old broomstick or a two by one piece of wood about six feet long and wrap it with a towel. Use a piece of duct tape to hold it to the wood or the handle of a broomstick and keep pushing in and pulling it out until the inside is clean of debris and dust. Then take a small brush to clean the lint in the exhaust hood and clothes dryer outlet. Use a damp cloth to wipe off all surfaces on the dryer’s exterior, and wipe out the inside as well. Sweep behind the dryer before returning it to the desired position. Dust nearby surfaces to remove lint that may be floating around the area.
Attach the hose to the dryer when you are done. If there are any holes in the hose or if the clamps are worn, this is a good time to replace them. Follow the same steps when you reattach the hose to the dryer outlet and the exhaust vent. Turn the gas back on and plug it in. Your clothes should start drying much faster now.
Take care of your appliances to make them last longer and work more effectively, saving you time and money over time.
20.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/scrubbathtubho_sevu.htm
How to scrub a bathtub
Scouring the bathtub seldom makes its way to the top of anyone's list of favorite things to do. Rather, it seems to be one of those tiresome chores that many people leave for last, citing their uncomfortable bending to wipe the tub, the intense scrubbing motions, and stretching to rinse the entire surface afterward.
To keep your bathtub sparkling and germ-free without expending all your energy, here are a few tips that may help you tackle this unwelcome task:
1. Organize your supplies in advance. Stock up on baking soda or a disinfectant spray like Lysol and keep cleaning supplies in a bathroom or hall closet for ready access. Include a long-handled scrub brush to help you reach the furthest parts of the tub and its borders or feet. You'll probably need a cleaning cloth or two that should be washed each week to keep it ready for the next time it is needed. Store everything together in one section of the closet or cupboard so you won't have to waste time searching hither and yon.
2. First remove all auxiliary items, such as soap, shampoo, washcloths, towels, or hygiene items. Then rinse the tub with warm water to get started. You can use the shower, if you have one, or a cup to drizzle water along the sides and back portions of the tub. Moistening the surfaces will help the cleanser to stick and sink in. You can rinse your cleaning cloth at the same time.
3. Apply your cleanser of choice. Avoid harsh chemical scouring agents, as these can be hard on your lungs and hands, as perhaps damage the tub's finish. Check the instructions on the back of any cleaning agent to be sure it is safe for bathtub use. Coat the tub's surface evenly and lightly, with a little more concentration on tough stains or the usual ring. Allow the cleanser to sit a few minutes while you tend to the rest of the bathroom cleaning chores.
4. Rinse the tub lightly and put on cleaning gloves for your hands if desired. Use your scrub brush to massage cleanser into the tub's surface. Use 6" circles in a counter-clockwise motion if you are right-handed, or the other way if left-handed. Continue making circles around the tub's perimeter and then along its length and sides. Add a few extra motions to the tough spots. This will probably take just a few minutes, especially if you clean the tub every week or so.
5. Now rinse the tub thoroughly. It may take a couple of times to remove all soap and grime residue. Look for any missed spots and catch these with your scrub cloth before rinsing it, along with the faucets, spout, soap dish, and other tub fixtures.
Your bathtub should look clean and fresh. Open a window to air out the room, weather permitting. Rinse your cloth and store the cleaning items and you are ready to move on to the next task or take a breather.